CexyGrayhound
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CexyGrayhound 12/12/2020
Original Creality boxed products. Fixed my problem! I switched of my printers without disconnected the Raspberry Pis that run OctoPrint and it killed the Z-axis motors (because 5V DC was being back fed to them all night from the USB - they need pulses not continuous current - note, I had replaced the mainboards with BTT SKR Mini E3 V2.0, however it is apparently a known issue in the community). These were the only ones I could find that precisely matched the original specification - round not D-shaped axel of the correct length with correct electrical parameters - plenty of others are available but you will need to know a lot more to be able to get them up and running - therefore these were effectively plug and play. With my setup the Z-axis drops when power is removed or the print is cancelled (definitely with default OctoPrint g-code for Cancel), so be careful not to scratch your bed (I made sure I was holding the Z screw to stop this, and while clearing the bed, then rotating it to raise the print head before running a home move again so that the motor reengages before letting go) - learn how to modify firmware and end/cancel g-code to mitigate this.
Silnik Creality 3D® 42-34 do drukarki 3D Ender-3 serii Ender-3 V2
US$17.31 US$17.99
3
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CexyGrayhound 12/12/2020
Saw someone on YouTube and sounded a good idea to me. I have 2 Ender-3 Pros, one has these installed, the other is waiting until I complete a big batch of prints. In theory installation should be easy - dismantle, replace springs, put everything back together - unfortunately it my not be depending on your printer. The glue on the back of the magnetic bed was all that was stopping the bolts from turning and, because the height of the head of the bolts is slightly less then the thickness of the aluminium plate, it it easy to pull them off that glue and then they spin freely. To overcome this I pressed down on the magnetic sheet with my finger to mark a round indent, then cut an X with a very sharp blade, and peeled it back like an orange. I was then able to use a philips screwdriver in the top of the bolt to stop it spinning, temporarily. To stop it spinning again with everything reassembled you first have to add a nut on the underside of the bed, preferably with a non-metal washer (avoid scratching the paint on the underside which insulates the heater tracks/wires and causing a short), ideally use nylok (locking) nuts. It only took a couple of hours to do. There is another pack available where they are all the same length, if you have a cable relief system like an Ender-3 or somthing else that mounts around one of the levelling screws you need this one. Bed is as easily levelled and doesn't need to be readjusted as often as with springs (I've only done it when I had to adjust the eccentric nut on the Y-axis which meant the bed wasn't as level to begin with). I also found, with springs, that it wouldn't always be level after removing and reinstalling the print surface (probably once in every 3 or 4 prints I would have to relevel the bed) - no need to do this anymore! You may need to change your Z-endstop, depending on how much height you gain or lose, however I have upgraded to an original BLTouch which is used as the endstop so this doesn't matter.
4 szt/pakiet 18mm*3 + 16mm*1 Kolumna poziomowania podgrzewanego stołu Solid Bed z amortyzacją silikonową do drukarki 3D CR10/Ender-3 Creality
US$8.07 US$13.99
3
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CexyGrayhound 12/12/2020
Reduces noise a little, keeps the printer cleaner (reduces dust and other stuff in the air being attracted to the printer - some of my filament has static 'cling'), keeps smells contained (but you get a facefull when you open it up to get print out - ideally you want to pump the air in the enclosure to the outside world). Most of all it keeps the temperature stable and warmer (I easily get over 30degC inside the enclosure with bed at 40degC+ - you may need to reduce nozzle or bed temperatures a bit and make sure motors don't get too hot). Gives me peace of mind if the printer set on fire (it should contain it). The top can sag a bit (especially when your cat finds a nice warm place to nap) - I cable tied the side of a dismantled plastic crate onto the top of the frame, at the front, before putting the cover back on. It is just tall and wide enough for my Ender-3 Pro with spool holder on top (just be careful where cables run out the side behind the extruder as they may be pushed into other positions and may snag if not organised appropriately) with adequate space front/back. It is the right size while running but is a little tight for moving the printer around inside for maintenance. The silver reflective surface is very thin and can easily be ripped - make sure you lift the printer before turning and avoid any sharp points making contact (I use my large silicone soldering work sheet to rest it on).
Creality 3D® Mała obudowa Zdejmowana osłona izolacyjna na drukarkę 3D z folią aluminiową ognioodporną dla Ender-3/3 pro
US$121.26 US$125.99
0
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CexyGrayhound 12/12/2020
Best recent upgrade!!! You can now see how far filament has gone in/out while feeding and if the filament has got squashed or damaged by the extruder. It is not perfectly transparent but you can easily see the shape of the end as it is coming out, you can detect larger dents in the filament (e.g. if it has been ground down by the extruder), you can almost see the little dents from the teeth of the extruder. You can obviously see what colour filament you have installed, without having to extrude any to check (e.g. on my setup I cannot see the spool or the filament going into the extruder, on the webcam, but I [now] can see what's coming out in the feed tube - with this one). Fantastic!!! If you are not printing flexible filaments this is a better option than Capricorn (where only the narrower inside diameter and higher temperature may be of benefit).
WielkiDrzewoTECH® Rura PTFE Transparentna OD4 ID2mm Teflon dla filamentu 1.75mm do głowic V6/V5 J-head i3 Mega Hotend Extruder
US$8.07 US$8.99
0
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CexyGrayhound 12/12/2020
The product looks good but, if you are like me, it is difficult to (re-)solder for any reason - I got this to cut up into smaller sections for multiple projects. It is joined (with solder) [about] half way, which means that the second half of the LEDS will not perfectly line up - this obviously depends on what you are after and how precise you want to be (for me it meant that some of the LEDs, from the section with the solder, did not perfectly line up with the holes I had made for it to shine through). Also, if you are after perfection, the heat shrink on the ends slightly squashes the tape (at one end of the heat shrink) and is open at the other, it is also a relatively hard heatshrink which can be a little bit sharp at the pointy corners.
100CM WS2812B 5050SMD Nie wodoodporny 100 LED RGB taśma świetlna z wbudowanym układem scalonym do hotelu, baru, domu DC5V
US$16.16 US$16.99
0
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Drukarka 3D z zestawem do modernizacji dwuskładnikowego ekstrudera o krótkim zasięgu z kołem ekscentrycznym TWO TREES® TPU Flexible
US$48.50 US$50.99

Q: Where is the heatsink?

zapytał CexyGrayhound na 2020-10-17 09:54:51

hasseo Supposed to use the stock one

2020-10-20 01:10:26 Pomocny (2)
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Spersonalizowana wersja Creality 3D® Ender-3Xs Pro Drukarka 3D z cichą płytą główną V4.2.2 + platforma ze szklaną płytą + magnetyczny zestaw naklejek zdejmowanych 220x220x250mm Rozmiar wydruku
US$305.89 US$302.99

Q: vem a placa silenciosa, é a mesa extra?

zapytał BG841222020 na 2020-09-08 09:50:39

CexyGrayhound Thestandard Ender-3 Pro comes with the "noisy" v1.1.4 mainboard installed, this is removed as part of the customizing and replaced (pre-installed) with the "silent" v1.1.5 mainboard (they don't send the v1.1.4 board as well). The standard Ender-3 pro now comes with the magnetic bed and removable flexible magnetic print surface, the removable glass printing surface is provided IN ADDITION to the magnetic one (so you have a choice of which to use).

2020-09-09 05:05:38 Pomocny (0)
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